I believe the problems Im getting are due to my son knocking the drive off my desk two or three times, and probably damaging the heads, or some other internal part.The BIOS splash screen is displayed and it remains on that screen, indefinitely.
Id installed Daemon tools before connecting my WD Essentials drive, and Daemon Tools took drive letter H, which is what the WD drive always was previously. However, upon connecting the replacement PCB with original ROM to the HDD, its still doing the same as before, the HDD is not spinning up at all. ![]() Diodes: D1, D2, D3, D4 all not shorted Motor: all 4 contacts are shorted to each other (Im guessing there was no burnt coil then) J6: bottom two pins not giving any voltages upon powering up, and top two pins giving constant low voltage, i cross-checked with WD10EZED, and eventually the replacement PCB that I got, that wasnt supposed to be the case, the pins should have fluctuating voltages upon startup. However, I woke up today and test after almost 6 hours later, pin 87 no longer short-circuited with pin 6, similarly no continuity observed between pin 6 and pin 3. Instead, pin 87 has 9.5MOhm observed with pin 6, and 0.58MOhm observed between pin 6 and pin 3. My question then: 1) does serial number (sticker on the back of PCB) matter or just the PCB number alone will suffice for matching replacement 2) difference in components on both PCB boards are fine too 3) I know that U12 is the ROMBIOS, but does it tie to the pre-ampheader and thus without U12, platters swap would still be okay for data recovery eventually Thanks very much for your help, HDD recovery services are rather limited in my region of residence and hence Im DIY-ing this. FWIW, here are my observations: 1 The PCB on the right has a blister on the SMOOTH chip. Is that the faulty PCB Did you try to spin up the drive with the replacement PCB, without transferring the ROM I notice that the same PCB is used by Caviar Blacks and Greens, which spin at 7200 and 5400 RPM, respectively. I dont know what would happen if you spun up a Black with a Green PCB. Would the Blacks heads fly much lower at 5400 RPM, and would this be dangerous 2 EM6AA160TSA-5G is a 2.5V, 16M x 16 bit DDR SDRAM whereas HY5DU121622DTP-D43 is a 2.5V, 32M x 16 bit DDR SDRAM. I dont know if this difference in RAM capacity will affect compatibility. The PCB on the right has a 3.3V pass transistor at Q1 whereas the board on the left does not. Therefore I suspect that the ROM chip on the right PCB runs off a 3.3V supply whereas the ROM on the left PCB is powered from 2.5V. You would need to refer to the datasheets to be sure. SK3, SK4 are shock sensors for rotational vibration sensing. Here is my collection of datasheets: Thanks so much for your reply fzabkar 1) The one on the right is the replacement, the one on the left is the original, i think its a stain than a blister I didnt try to power up the HDD with the replacement PCB before swapping the ROMs, Im worried that would make me lose data, would it 2) noted, im even less sure of it 3) Ah, so thats what the additional voltage regulator is about, for additional 3.3V. I cant get the model number for the replacement PCBs ROM, but Ive checked my original ROM, its 2.5V nominal voltage, although can handle up to 3.6V, I wouldnt want to risk it though. Maybe I should attempt to buy another replacement PCB then that has the exact same components but how can I ensure my next purchase wouldnt end up being slightly different like what I currently have now. However, it might be worth taking some voltage measurements on your original PCB at L1, L2 and D2 near the SMOOTH IC. You should see 1.2V and 2.5V. Ive powered it up, nothing smoked, which was rather a good sign.
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